The Inherent Bummer Guide: Saquarema, Brazil
When Anthony Bourdain shot an episode of Parts Unknown in Brazil he instructed the film crew to “shoot at hip level as much as possible” and “move the cameras to convey the sense that everybody is beautiful.”
That much is true. The place is sexy. People are outdoors and they are active. They move their bodies and they don’t take kindly to clothing. It makes sense that they would produce a ridiculous amount of surfers and supermodels. Walk the beach in any Brazilian town and that much will make sense to you very quickly.
In surf culture, Brazilians have gotten a bad rap. Cultural differences, aggressive lineups and the fact that to get recognition at the elite level took a lot of fight. They basically had to get so much better at surfing than everyone else so that it would be impossible to ignore them. Which is what we have today. A Brazilian storm so strong it’s hard to remember surfing without them.
If you’re a surfer and you’ve discounted Brazil as a destination, well, I feel sorry for you. A place that’s warm, full of all kinds of waves, beautiful people, great food, lively culture and dammit if they don’t love to dance. And sure it isn’t without its pitfalls: the place can be downright dangerous — as anywhere can be if you don’t pay attention — but with a little guidance, Brazil may well come to be one of your favorite surf destinations in the world.
Magnifying on the upcoming location of the WSL Tour, Saquarema can look like a quiet town in comparison with some of its more lively neighbors, but with the right guidance (and we’ve got them) you can make Brazil a go-to surf destination.
Saquarema is home to a few Brazilian legends. The late Leonardo Neves and Raoni Monteiro led the way on the competitive side and that torch is now being carried by the Chianca Brothers, Lucas “Chumbo” the big wave specialist and his brother CT standout João “Chumbinho” who’s currently number three in the world.
In the early days, around the 1970s, Saquarema was known as a simple and quiet fishing village before it was ‘discovered’ by a few Carioca surfers from Rio de Janeiro.
In times of military repression, Saquarema became the perfect escape and a bit of a Brazilian Woodstock in 1975, hosting the first surfing festival, Som, Sol & Surf Saquarema. The 3-day festival really took off by the next year with hundreds of young people camping on the sand as some of the biggest names in Brazilian rock played right on the beach at Itaúna as the surfing competition was under way.
The government realized that surfing was a big part of the local economy and now the city has invested more into building its surfing culture as part of the draw for tourism. Today Saquarema is known as Brazil’s surfing capital and in 2017 the WSL went back to Saquarema after a hiatus and it’s been one of the largest spectator surfing events in the world.
So you wanna check this place out? Or at least know what you’re looking at over the next couple of weeks while the event is on?
We hit up some of Saquarema’s finest surf stars, local business owners and the best host we’ve ever had during our time there to make sure this list is complete. This should keep you fed, surfing, buzzed and healthy all at once.
Meet the guides for the Inherent Bummer Guide to Saquarema, Brazil.
Guilherme Braga: Host to all the surf stars. “Braga” has made it his life’s work to show people the best possible time ever in his homeland of Brazil. Brazil is one of my favorite countries largely due to his guidance.
Ricardo Silva: Saquarema local business owner: Mitra Academia and Gracie Barra Saquarema.
Miguel Pupo: World Tour veteran, oldest brother of the Ohana Pupo, nicest grill on tour (Not from Saquarema, but has been there enough to know the ropes i.e. in Miguel we trust).
Joao Chianca: Saquarema local tube hound and current world number 3.
FOOD
BAR DA PRAIA - Good sushi and also has a small gift shop and surf shop.
LE BISTRO CASA PORTUGUESA - Great spot for a date. Make sure to call in advance for a reservation.
FIXI RESTAURANTE - When visiting Praia Brava check out FIXI and its stunning views of Brazil’s most easterly area. And believe it or not the seafood is better than the views.
CASA DA PRAIA – Beach bar and restaurant. Food, drinks, and live music on the beach. Can’t go wrong with the prato feito (plate of the day).
GAROTA DE ITAÚNA - Great seafood and meat.
AREIA RISOTERIA E CAFÉ - Risotto restaurant inside Casa da Praia at Itaúna Beach.
BOLD BURGER - The best burger in the city. They also have good pizzas and snacks, and drinks.
KIOSK 12 - Traditional beachfront restaurant specializing in local fish and seafood from the region. As authentic as it gets!
POUSADA ALGAS MARINAS - It’s a Pousada, however you can find one of the best pizzas in the city here.
HERMANITO STORE - Hopefully you have made a local friend that can show you the real Brazilian BBQ. This local market is the best place to get all kind of meats, and goods for a typical Brazilian BBQ.
BEACHES & SURFING
POINT OF ITAÚNA - The most consistent option around. Fun wedging rights and lefts depending on the swell and wind conditions. On classic days there are long lefts with east-southeast swells. More common rights with southerly swells.
MIDDLE OF ITAÚNA BEACH - Typical beach break with several spots to surf. Find your own peak anywhere on the beach and have at it.
BARRINHA - Very powerful and hollow world class wave. The best wave in the area on it’s day.
VILA BRACH - Powerful left point break on the opposite side of the big church when the swell is from the east. Some good waves in the middle of the beach with nobody out as well.
JACONE BEACH – Exposed beach break just south of Saquarema that has consistent surf outside of summer which tends to be mostly flat. The best wind direction is from the northeast.
ARRAIAL DO CABO CITY - The city of Arraial do Cabo is a cape with a variety of different beaches and coves. Some considered to be the most beautiful in the world. The city is home to Porto do Forno, which is a marina with three piers where products enter the city and salt production leaves. Ideal for diving, ecotourism is the basis of Cabista's economy.
PRAIA BRAVA - On flat days it’s possible to find some waves at Praia Brava (Arraial do Cabo), however it’s best to go with locals.
PRAIA GRANDE - Another beautiful beach in Arraial do Cabo. If there is some swell you can score some fun waves here too.
BUZIOS - Formerly a peaceful fishing village surrounded by amazing beaches, Buzios was made famous by Brigitte Bardot in the ‘60s. Great place to go spend a few days when the waves are flat. The cobblestone streets are filled with incredible restaurants, bars, and shops. Perfect for a 1 to 2 day trip, plus you can pay a visit to Brigitte’s bronze statue there.
ACCOMMODATION
HOTEL MAASAI - Best accommodations around this town. A little more pricey than other options, but it’s worth it if it works with your budget. Located right on the point at Itaúna. Good restaurant attached and nice rooms.
CASTELHANA PRAIA HOTEL - Located on the sand of Itaúna beach and has an incredible swimming pool overlooking the ocean. Breakfast included and secured parking for guests.
CASA LARROSA ITAÚNA - Littered with Rock N’ Roll photos, plus Slater stays here so you know it’s worthy.
HOTEL LAGE DE ITAÚNA - Just behind the Maasai and probably about half the price.
BARS
Saquarema is a small and generally quiet town, but it does have some of the most amazing beach bars across the sand where you’ll really feel the Brazilian vibe.
CASA DA PRAIA - Yes, they have an amazing bar too. You can spend the day and night here watching the waves enjoying ice cold caipirinhas!
CASA DO SURFE - Live music on the sand at Itaúna. You’re sure to find some salty surf dogs to exchange swell stories with.
P22 HOUSE - More amazing views on the waterfront and it wouldn’t be complete without live music.
CINEA - Good for the last call. Especially when the contests are happening in town. Fun with a group of friends if you’re looking to watch the sun come up.
COFFEE & ACAI
MEGA AÇAÍ - You have to get a real Brazilian Açaí. Mega is the spot in Saquarema. Ask for banana batido and if you have a sweet tooth get leite condensado.
NU POTE - Great coffee and deserts. Specialties are their jarred cakes.
GENERAL
IGREJA DE NOSSA SENHORA DE NAZARETH - The big church on the point. It’s in nearly every photo and view that you have, but it’s worth a close up look to check out the view. Great spot to watch the sunset.
PARA MOTOR SAQUAREMA - If you’re feeling daring enough you can hop on a para glider and fly across the Saquarema beaches.
MITRA ACADEMIA – The Brazilian lifestyle is very active. You can hit this complete gym with weights, pilates, Yoga, Zumba, fit dance, jiu-jitsu & self defense by Gracie Barra to try and keep up.
SURF SHOP
SAQUAREMA SURF STORE - Filled with plenty of Lost Surfboards and Fu Wax. You could maybe get lucky and score an old João Chianca board.
VILA BEACH SURFING - If you forget your boardshorts you can pick up something here that might work.