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It’s not the end of the world.

The Inherent Bummer Guide: North Shore, Oahu

The Inherent Bummer Guide: North Shore, Oahu

Let’s go ahead and skip the cliches. Ignore the hyperbole. The obvious. The predictable. We’ve all seen enough footage, imagery and iconography of the North Shore to last thousands of lifetimes. We dove deep in Fresh Hell 0004: Hawaii Time —hell, as I write this we’re preparing to watch the season kickoff at Pipeline and our Ig feed is full of waves of the winter already. We’re inundated. What more could we learn? Well, we consume a lot of content based around the North Shore. It’s our spot. Always and seemingly forever. But it’s also really easy to go there and feel totally lost.

It’s beautiful and localized (as it sorta needs to be) and between the intensity of those waves and those locals, it’s down right overwhelming despite being only seven miles long. But what we want to do is prepare you for the day you finally get a chance to touch down in Honolulu to make your pilgrimage out to the “The Country.”

Late last year, we we tried to explain what being on the North Shore is like, but even this falls short. It has to be seen to be believed. Without proper guidance, you’ll quickly be in over your head — as I was on my first trip there, trying to keep up with Mark Healey and Fred Pattachia who took me “diving” — which I quickly found out had nothing to do with a swimming pool and actually meant shooting fish with a speargun way off Rocky Point — an especially sharky zone by NS standards. At the time I was way in over my head, but trailing those guys gave me a trial by fire and to this day appreciate their patience with a haole Californian.

Most of us come in thinking we know what’s what and what to expect, but it’s easy to go there for years and never peel the curtain back on the NS Underground properly.

Without any guidance, you will find yourself stranded in “turtle traffic” on Kam Highway sipping safe Mai Tais' at Turtle Bay with golfers from Idaho while overlooking the course thinking you had a true North Shore experience. Newsflash: this is not an authentic North Shore experience. Sure, it’s a nice holiday, but that’s not why you go to the North Shore.

You gotta face your fears and get amongst it. Read our guide to the North Shore and take it from the locals who live here year round. At the end of your trip may you find yourself at Honolulu International reflecting on the waves and experiences of your life.—Travis

Johnny Boy Gomes. You better know who he is before you go.

Vote for Makua.

We polled a few of the North Shore’s most reputable stars and people we love to have a meal and/or drink with. We hope this keeps you fed, surfing, buzzed and healthy all at once. 

Interviews by Brandon Guilmette

Moana Jones Wong: The undisputed Queen of Pipeline.

Jon Pyzel: Surfboard builder to many, including most of the Big Wave Tour, the Florence Brothers, and pretty much anyone that surfs Jaws.

Barron Mamiya: Pipeline maestro and 2022 WSL Sunset Beach Champ. Sends it harder than most.

Bettylou Sakura Johnson: 2022 Challenger Series Champion and World Tour competitor from Haleiwa. Can also kick some ass on the motocross track.

Noah Beschen: Rides Code Red 2.0 waves at Teahupoo and stomps 540’s at Rocky Point. Shane Beschen’s son and North Shore resident.

Evan Mock: North Shore born skater boy, Gossip Girl star and founder of Wahine.

FOOD

Eating on the North Shore is an interesting endeavor. Honestly, without local knowledge, you might go hungry. Or you’ll eat the strangest tourist food. Use the guide below to make sure you’re staying fueled with legit, healthy (and not so healthy) local food. They exist, but you need some intel.

Hale’iwa Joe’s - Great for celebrating. My family loves to go to dinner at Joe’s. Great seafood and steak. Not cheap, but great if you want to have a big meal.

Poke for the People - Fresh fish and lots of yummy options. Love this spot for lunch when in Haleiwa town.

Hale’iwa Bowls - Acai might fuel at least 2/3 of this part of the island and if you’re on the look out for the best bowl on this side, go to Hale’iwa bowls located just near the infamous rainbow bridge.

*Note: Haleiwa is the main town. Most locals consider it a bit of a mission, but it’s where you’ll wanna go if you need to fuel up on anything beyond what food trucks and Food Land can do.

Surf N Salsa - One of a few Mexican spots in Haleiwa. They have epic tacos and sometimes live music in the back.

Banzai Sushi - They have great sushi and a killer little bar inside. The service is usually very good. Make a reservation if you can.

“Banzai sushi has the odd combo of really good sushi and amazing spicy margaritas!”
— Jon Pyzel

Cafe Hale’iwa - The oldest breakfast spot in town and has really good, hearty food made by the original owners, the Campbell family.

Wailua Bakery - Massive sandwiches and unreal baked goods and smoothies. The ultimate post surf grinds. Bring cash or be ready to hit their ATM.

Lei Lei’s Bar & Grill - Great food! A bit more fancy and you won’t leave hungry. Get the baby back ribs or the ahi steak. And prepare to a plethora of surf industry bros wining and dining their team riders.

The Ahi Steak from Lei Lei’s is something that you won’t get just anywhere.

“My favorite restaurant on the North Shore is definitely Pupukea Grill.”
— Barron mamiya

If The Boys eat there, it must be good.

Pupukea Grill - Multiple sources claim that Pupukea Grill is the best spot on the North Shore. Moana suggests the Hawaiian Bowl or chicken quesadilla plate. Papaya Sunset smoothie is a winner!

The Country Eatery has great fresh pressed juices, coffees, pastries, burrito bowls. Lots of healthy options.

Banzai Bowls - Maybe one of the easiest places to find on the North Shore. Banzai bowls is right next door to the only gas station on the Waimea side of Haleiwa. Great bowls and good chance you might run into Noah Beschen.

Ted’s Bakery: There aren’t a whole lot of healthy options here, but you will eventually find yourself hungry enough for a plate lunch, spam musubi and Ted’s Haupia cream pie. You just will. And you should just do it. Watch out for tourists clogging the line.

Order a meal and you literally get a pie for free. Add a spam musubi for full effect.

Papi’s Tacos - Killer tacos in Kahuku. Call in an order and post up at the beer garden. You can thank us later.

Rajanee Thai - This place in Haleiwa is one of my favorites. I usually go with the yellow curry noodles or green papaya salad. They also have insane Thai iced tea.

Zippy’s in Wahiawa - When arriving on Oahu and heading to the North Shore, a great first stop is Zippy’s in Wahiawa. They have almost everything. Portuguese Sausage Omelette Sandwiches are amazing!

Zippy’s Portuguese Sausage Omelette Sandwiches

“First stop after landing back home is zippy’s in Wahiawa.”
— Evan mock

Shige’s Saimin Stand - If it’s a rainy, cold day in the islands, Shige’s Saimin Stand in Wahiawa is a staple.

No. 7 Japanese Truck - Great Japanese food truck in Haleiwa. You can’t go wrong with the Crispy Spicy Ahi.

Raised by the Waves - Voted best vegan cafe of the islands 2021. Amazing bowls, smoothies, sandwiches and salads. You can’t really go wrong with anything on the menu. Loaded with a variety of options that are all winners. Make sure you leave with a superfood coffee or Lanikai lemonade.

Raised by the Waves lineup

Maya’s Tapas - Great ambiance and amazing flatbreads and seafood. Maya’s also stays open later than most places in Haleiwa, has live music some evenings and makes a mean cocktail. We recommend the “Lost at Sea” but swap the vodka with tequila.

Farm to Barn Cafe - Epic fresh pressed juices and loads of good options for breakfast and lunch. The barn burrito is a local favorite.

Farm to Barn - Barn Burger and Barn Burrito

Foodland: Basically the only grocery store on the North Shore. Expensive and you’re usually grabbing a pretty random assortment of food and drinks based on the way you live over here. You will run into people you either know or recognize, every single time. No one wears shoes.

Chapter 11’s Hunter Martinez and a pretty typical Food Land haul.

SURFING

Think you’re up for it? Pipeline before dark.

Hawaiian Champs - John, Sunny, Carissa.

“If you can remember that you are visiting and that this is many people’s home,
be respectful and aware of your surroundings, you will have a great time. Smile at the people around you, say hi, and you may end up having a deeper, better experience than you can imagine.”  
— Jon Pyzel

BettyLou Sakura Johnson

Michael Ho

JOB, Billy Kemper, Michael and Mason Ho.

Haleiwa - Great to surf if you want some waves of a little more consequence. Can go from beginner all the way up to the most advanced ability levels. After 4-6 feet, be careful of the current that sucks you out towards the buoy.

Waimea Bay - The shorebreak can be fun to body womp and sometimes surf. If you have the equipment and it’s on, you can try your hand.

Keiki - is the best spot to just hang on the beach. It has a really nice big beach. Sometimes the shorebreak is pretty crazy and you can spectate some heavy pits on the sand.

Pipeline - Definitely a wave and beach that are insane. When it’s 6ft plus, most the pros are heading to Pipeline. Great to post up and watch and you can try your luck, but the boys hold it down pretty hard.

Ehukai Beach Park - A fav spot to hang on the beach, surf and have fun with friends. Beach day and surf and have a blast. 

Eithan Osborne pre surf.

Eithan post surf.

Pupukea - Surf with a bit less consequence and enjoy the beach when there is a sandbar. Perhaps the most beautiful days on the North Shore are spent hanging on the beach here, quick surfs sprinkled in.

Rocky Point - The basic when it’s 4 to 6 foot and under. Rocky Point is the way to go. That’s pretty much always the spot at that size.

Grindy one at Pipe.

BARS

Bourdain Aloha.

The nightlife scene can be funny to navigate around the North Shore. Not a lot of options and usually the best drinks are had right on the beach with your mates. Learn how to execute the “Pau Hana Beer” here. Haleiwa Town seems to shut down by 9:30pm. Just wait for the night “DJ MakanaPang is throwing a party” or maybe you’ll get lucky and get invited to a party at the Volcom House. Surf all day, sunset beer, nice dinner. Thats’ usually the go. Team houses can go off but you better bring your best party behavior.

DJ M.Pang

Hale’iwa Bottle Shop - Craft and local beer, wine, and spirits located in Hale’iwa town. Best selection of goodies to take on your journey.

Haleiwa Joe’s - They have a cool little bar here. You can get beer, wine and spirits. I’d go for the mai tai.

Cholo’s - Great spot if you want to hang and have a chat. Good margaritas.

Jorge’s - The megarita. It’s exactly what you think. A fishbowl sized margarita. Great spot to hang with a few friends for beers, margaritas, and tacos.

Lei Lei’s Bar - One of the favorite places to start the evening. Great pupus and awesome cocktails. Mai tai, or Lei Lei’s Lemonade to get the party started.

Turtle Bay Pool Bar - A perfect spot for a (overpriced) sunset drink. Mai Tai’s are great. Any more than two of those and you will be well on your way. Cool bartenders.

Turtle Bay Lobby Bar - It’s kinda like dress up and mingle/get a few drinks, not really a rager but more classy. Great cocktails and maybe the most options of anywhere on the North Shore. Latest last call around town.

Kahuku Beer Garden - Cold dogs fresh off the tap. They even let you bring food from surrounding vendors. Call in your order to Papi’s Tacos and grab a table before they are all taken. Best place to roll up with sandy feet after a long day of shredding.

COFFEE

Island vintage - Good coffee and great variety of things to eat. Good smoothies too.

Coffee Gallery - I love the pastries that they bake in the morning. Usually go for an iced coffee and a carrot cake.

Sunrise Shack.

Sunrise Shack - Owned by the Smith brothers, this is a North Shore staple. They have two locations right on the North Shore. Sunset Beach and Sharks Cove. Both are pretty rad. You gotta check it out and get yourself a Bullet coffee.

The Country Eatery - is great little coffee spot in Kahuku. They have healthy snacks and treats to go with your latte. They’ve even expanded a little and have some great healthier options.

GENERAL

Island View Hawaii

Island View Hawaii - Probably one of the craziest experiences of a lifetime. You free dive with sharks out in the middle of the ocean. Lots of smaller sandbar and Galapagos sharks, and if you’re lucky, every once in a while they come across a big Tiger Shark.

North Shore Surf Shop - Best collection of vintage surfboards in the world. You can spend hours in there just looking at the boards and if you have any surf needs they’ve got it on hand for ya. Epic selection of trade in pro surfboards. One location at Sharks cove and one in Hale’iwa town. Owned and operated by Liam McNamara. Watch below and you’ll find out why Liam is as core as they come.

Surf N’Sea - Just near the rainbow bridge and equipped with everything you could ever want and much more. Rentals if you’re feeling like being touristy, or you can get anything to go high performance in any conditions.

Matsumoto Shave Ice - Shave ice is an interesting niche product that thrives in the heart of Hale’iwa town. Matsumoto is one of the OG spots to nab a rainbow cone.

Aoki’s shave Ice - Another iconic shave-ice stand in Hale’iwa just across the street from Matsumoto. Usually has half the line, but every bit as good. Local family runs this little gem. Make sure to get the ice-cream on the bottom.

Kula Shaved Ice - They craft all their own flavors from local organic fruit, so you know you’re getting the best Hawaii can offer. Located right by Kuilima Farmstands in Kahuku.

Bike ride Kam highway and scope the neighborhoods. Show respect though…Da Hui still enforces the neighborhood watch.

Pretty good zone for a beach day. Maybe you’ll make friends…

12 Songs: Warm Water, Honey and Lemon

12 Songs: Warm Water, Honey and Lemon

Beneath the Surface: Mason Ho

Beneath the Surface: Mason Ho

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