The Inherent Bummer Guide: Santa Cruz, California
Santa Cruz has edge. It can be a downright intimidating place — especially for those of us who know a few things about its rich history. Locals all come with rodent and pest nicknames and its past is as dark as it is innovative. And while these days it’s actually pretty easy to wander into town behind the wheel of a sprinter van with a couple soft tops and ride some waves at Cowell’s, to know and experience the authentic Santa Cruz and do it properly is one of the great surf experiences. Hopefully this guide sets you on your way and opens up the gateway to one of the finest surf towns there is. But first, you must acknowledge and face the facts.
There is a long list of surfers who have invested an immense amount of time and energy into continuing this iconic surf town’s legacy. It’s a place where you might pull up to one of its many epic setups on a good day and see 10 waves in a row ridden to perfection by hooded locals you’ve never heard of.
Santa Cruz is a complex tapestry of surfing’s greatest and worst attributes all rolled into one. During your trip, you’ll likely stumble into fun waves you never knew existed with very few people out. You will also experience what it’s like to see perfect waves breaking right in front of your eyes that you will never surf — so don’t even try.
Santa Cruz surf culture is California’s bully older brother that leaves you with a black eye, bloodied and bruised, cold and humbled — begging for more. It is core like no other California surf town is. It’s also probably one of the most beautiful places on the planet. The coastline is raw and craggy; the cold water full of kelp and it sits right in the middle of an aquatic highway (and marine sanctuary) commuted on by seals, whales, dolphins and submarine-sized great white sharks.
I spent much of my childhood scared of Santa Cruz. Anything to “the north” was to be feared and approached with caution. I was a Southern California boy in a 3/2 looking for playful beach breaks to do chop-hops at. Up there they rode great whites like ponies, pioneered Mavericks, literally invented wetsuits and were home to guys named Ratboy, Flea, Skindog, Tazzy, Barney and Ruffo. And they were all doing full-rotation airs and experimenting with mind-altering substances (and they were not microdosing). Many have emerged on the good end of those days and the vibe is significantly lighter now — but we did tragically lose some far too soon and it’s not exactly a place gone soft. There are still scars and festering wounds they all remember well and do their best to face and address with dignity and grace every day.
Since my early days of fearing it, I’ve learned to love Santa Cruz and it’s mostly because of the people. Some of the most genuine characters you’ll ever meet — nonstop stories and energy with some, and deep stoic wisdom from others. They protect this place well and they should. It needs protecting.
Your first surf at The Lane should be a special and altogether humbling experience — we recommend a heavy helping of Josh Pomer’s The Kill vids before strapping the booties on and making the trek past the lighthouse and over the gate into the surfing coliseum that is Steamer Lane. Just know all eyes are on you when you’re out there. It’s hard to hide any wrinkles in your surfing — there are ribs in the wave from the rebound on the cliff and kelp monsters that’ll grab your fins — but do it right and maybe you’ll end up with a nickname of your own. And if you do, congratulations, be sure to tell ‘em “Chopped Liver” sent ya.—Travis Ferré
We polled some of SC’s finest to make sure this list is complete. It should keep you fed, surfing, hanging in the right spots and healthy all at once.
Darryl “Flea” Virostko: Three-time Mavericks champ, aerial pioneer, Santa Cruz icon. Currently operates Fleahab — a new approach to sober living and recovery based around surfing and activity.
Ben Coffey: If you ask any local who’s underground, they’ll more than likely mention Ben. He’s a lifeguard but is probably on the best waves of most days at any spot and rips as hard as anyone.
Nat Young: Represents Santa Cruz on the world stage and has one of the most lethal backhands on the planet. Santa Cruz golden child. Doesn’t like booties.
Anthony Ruffo: Godfather of the Westside. Has a storied past, did his time and is now one of the most authentic and genuine representatives of Santa Cruz surfing there is.
Adam Bartlett: Tadpole! His dad is local legend Osh Bartlett — AKA Frog — hence the tadpole nickname. Ripping local, next generation Santa Cruz surfer with a bright future. Super informed and energetic kid with an infectious enthusiasm for surfing’s past, present and future.
Keanna Miller: One of many staple rippers at The Lane. Her dad Bud Miller is a Santa Cruz local. Keanna is working her way through the ranks of the NSSA and QS Tours.
Jack O’Neill.
FOOD
A town like Santa Cruz has a lot of options…maybe too many options, so it’s easy to stumble. You don’t want to end up in some tourist trap when the boys cruise by and see you flailing. Below is a guide that should narrow down the options to make sure you’re bumping into locals because you’re eating like a local.
If you’re looking for breakfast there are three places that you should consider: Harbor Cafe, Walnut Avenue Cafe and Zachary’s downtown. —Flea
Walnut Avenue Cafe.
Akira Sushi: If you like raw fish then you have to check out Akira. One of those classic hole in the wall sushi joints that doesn’t look like much from the outside but it’s the best sushi around town.
Akira Sushi.
Bantam Pizza: The pictures speak for themselves. Organic wood fire pizza’s on the westside of Santa Cruz. Everything tastes better after surfing in the freezing cold, trust us.
Lillian’s Italian Kitchen: This is the spot to bring your lady friend. When ordering, Sunday Gravy is the go-to. Pretty good pasta, too. —Nat
Lillian’s Italian Kitchen.
Steamer Lane Supply: One of my favorite places to eat is right at The Lane. All the quesadillas are so good, especially the Nutella-Dilla. The fish tacos are good too. —Tadpole
“[Steamer Lane Supply Co]. has the best burgers in town — not to mention it’s conveniently located across from The Lane. It’s perfect for an after-surf meal.” —Keanna
The Wharf: Walking out on the wharf will probably set off tourist alarms in your head. But keep going, it’s weird and kitschy but also downright authentic. You’ll run into everyone from hard drinking fisherman, to families and surf dudes. It’s all good, embrace the Wharf. It’s legit. And check out the massive seals that chill in the pier pilings at the end.
Riva’s and Olita’s: Two local favorites down on the Wharf. A fun place to eat. Our family loves anything with Carne Asada at El Palomar downtown too.—Tadpole
El Palomar: For Mexican food go downtown to El Palomar. Full bar and the scene for a little nightlife.—Flea
La Cabana: (2332 Mission St.) We all like Taquerias. La Cabana is down on Mission Street by Arrow Surf and Sport. Perfect for when your’e coming back into town and you wanna get a breakfast burrito. Those are pretty insane.—Flea
De la Hacienda Taqueria: Another epic taqueria. Best if you’ve just surfed all day and you’re about to fall over from starvation. Get a super burrito. You won’t be bummed or leave hungry. No surfing after a super burrito though.—Nat
“[De La Hacienda Taqueria] is the best place in Santa Cruz. Go for the al pastor super burrito.
Best burrito in the world.”
Charlie Hong Kong: Rice bowls and all-kinds of healthy food. Usually go here for lunch.—Flea
Mobo Sushi: Flea’s go-to sushi spot downtown.
SURFING
Santa Cruz is home to one of the widest varieties of waves in California. Every kind of set up is here. You can mix it up at one of the main waves and there’s usually plenty to go around, but look a little closer and there is no reason you can’t find waves with less people in some beautiful settings. There are locals and predators that should be respected, but if you play your cards right, a trip to Santa Cruz can be extremely fruitful any time of the year.
And hopefully you all recommendations below. Woulda killed for a list of spots like this the first time I went there. Very generous of the locals to share and hopefully everyone does their part in enjoying and respecting along the way and we can all gets some waves and have a good time.
”We are so lucky to live in Santa Cruz. There are so many waves in a small area. Usually where there’s cars there’s waves, so have fun, be respectful, pack your trash up when you leave and you’ll have a great time. If you’re surfing north of Santa Cruz, don’t leave your wallet and valuables in the car…consider bringing your stuff down to the beach there’s been known to be some weirdos breaking windows and going through your stuff…as with anywhere. “ —Flea
“When you’re surfing one of these spots in town just be aware of who’s in the water, who’s been waiting their turn — don’t just jump off the point and think you’re going to paddle into the first wave — that never goes over well. We’re all trying to be happy and be better at not snapping and stuff like that — so that’s a helpful tip for everybody.”
Steamer Lane: This is ground zero and town square for Santa Cruz. Best place to check first to get eyes on what’s happening with the swell and weather. Maybe you’ll bump into one of the locals for some tips, but this is the spot. You gotta have a session at Steamer Lane.
She’s like that go-to girl. She’s always there for you. Most consistent spot in town. If you want to be someone in SC, you gotta prove it at the Lane. Waves all year round. There’s the Point, slot, middle peak and indicators. Walk around after long rides, check out the girls…gets crowded. The boys nail it down when it’s good but then you can always go to middle peak. —Ruffo
“Consistent, fun waves, but know your way around rocks, cliffs and locals.”— Ben Coffey.
Keanna Miller - Fake Leg Photo
“My favorite place to surf. There’s nothing like jumping off the point and surfing the world famous wave. I’d recommend surfing it on a medium tide. If the tide’s too low, lots of rocks will be there, making it easier to ding your board. If the tides too high, the backwash from the rocks and cliff make it difficult.—Keanna Miller
Pleasure Point: One time I spent the day checking every single wave I knew of in Santa Cruz — from North to South, just to tour them on one beautiful winter day. I ended my journey at Pleasure Point and had a fun surf at Sewer Peak to cap the day. Later that evening I was at The Lane and I told Flea about my day, he asked where I ended up surfing and I said Pleasure Point. He looked at me and said, “Don’t ever do that again.”—Travis
Manresa: There are lots of uncrowned waves south of Santa Cruz in Manresa, but the sharks are definitely there too. —Ruffo
Ruffo by Rubin Ruiz
Pleasure Point and Steamer Lane to see what the swell is doing. Super crowded, if you wanna find waves by yourself. Between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay. Drive up north and you’ll see some waves.—Flea
A place that is consistently picks up swell is Four Mile. Located (you guessed it!) 4 miles north away from town, the spot is very difficult to miss with the big dirt parking lot with many surf cars. After walking down the dirt train you find yourself looking at fun right handers with a beautiful beach —Keanna
Southside County
October and November there’s dug out France-style sandbars. Sharky — fatal attack not that many years ago. In the spring they run drones and they see all kinds of sharks in that area…adolescents…but what are you gonna do? The waves are good. —Ruffo
Ruffo by Nelly
Capitola: Great for longboarding and taking people to learn to surf.
East Side: Lots of clean little ranch-y vibe spots.
Tadpole photo by dad (Osh Bartlett)
Sewer Peak: A great wave on high tide. Best place to high-five people and say “you rip.” Do that and you’ll probably get some waves.
1st peak, 2nd peak, etc…
The Hook: Ccrowds are thick. Lots of University of Santa Cruz Banana Slugs here. Like anywhere, show your respect and you’ll get waves.
Wind and Sea: Wintertime there’s good lefts.
26th Ave.: Reef outside the reef. One of the beachbreaks in town. Really fun in the spring. Not a lot of beachbreaks in town.
Harbor: As good as any sand bar grinder and will challenge you. Make the drop and you’re getting pitted. Harbor cops are not fond of you surfing out there. They will give you a ticket. The boys hold it down, so it’s hard to get waves if it’s the real deal. Midtown Shane will snap if he doesn’t know you [laughs].
Rivermouth: Epic wave, but doesn’t break all the time. Could go years without it. Need some rain to make it. When Hawaiian’s first brought surfing to America in 1885 they surfed there. 1982 was all time! Was like lowers and has never been that good since.
Cowell’s: Great beginner spot. We call it “Calibu”. Take girls surfing and if it’s a sandbar it goes into summer.
Mitchell’s: Gets crowded and hard to get waves. Can get like shitty JBay when it’s decent.
Swift St: Big facey wave. Punchy.
Natural Bridges: One of my favorite waves. The slab and the chip in from out the back coughs up and backs away into a hole. Backwashy but, man, it’s a great wave. Got slammed on the reef and broke my hand.
Nat Young. Photo: Perry Gershkow
4-Mile: We call it Florida Mile cuz everyone goes there. Great for guys from out of town. Mini V-land. Not long but it’s fun. Wind or anything it’s all good. Adam Repogle swears by it.
Waddell: Premiere summer spot. Some winters it has that mysto bar too.
Año Nuevo: A big hole in the cliff was made about 15 to 20 years ago changed the wave forever. Used to be one of the best wedge rights you have ever seen. Water is especially freezing there because of upwelling. Tons of marine life…it’s a super market for great whites. Where you surf is safe, but if you go beyond there…good luck.—Ruffo
Año great white grocery store.
BARS / NIGHTLIFE
The Catalyst: The best place to catch a gig in town. In terms of size, it’s a happy medium between the intimacy of a small club and the ambience of a larger theater. A circuit staple for a lot of major touring acts on their way to LA from San Francisco, or vice versa. There’s also The Atrium, which is a bit smaller. Great for punk, experimental, DIY, more niche type stuff. Catch the Mystery Lights there on Friday the 18th. Seriously, you won’t regret it.—Jackson Todd
“My all time favorite place to go for fun is The Catalyst. There’s nothing like going to the venue for a concert. It’s the best venue for live music and it gets visited by [tons] of artists. Another fun thing to do at night is go down to Boardwalk Bowl for a fun night of bowling and karaoke!" —Keanna
Pono Hawaiian Grill: A great start up spot to begin the night. Timmy Pono reopened the one on the WS downtown. Great plate lunch style food and you can watch games. Great atmosphere. Santa Cruz Boardriders Club meets there. Sometimes they have live music too.
The Blue Lagoon: They play some wild music videos on the tvs that will baffled your buzzed mind. Goes late if you feel like dancing.
Surf City Billiards: Play pool, watch people play pool. Cool atmosphere.
Mission West: A cool spot to have drinks and see some people you know and good looking women. West side crew and lots of people from the other side of town. Really cool spot. If you’re trying to send it, you can go to Mission West. You can find plenty going on there.
Castaways: Sorta like the Mission West of the East Side.
Brady’s Yacht Club: Rad midtown spot. Neighborhood kind of bar. Good bar, good people.
Apero Club [Wine Bar]: For good times and natural wines. Really awesome owners, great place to kick back and can have epic DJ’s if you know the right night.
COFFEE
Cat & Cloud: Epic spot on the westside. Get yourself a breakfast burrito too.
Coffeetopioa: Down on Mission Street.
The Bagelry: The Santa Cruz Original: If you want a good bagel in Santa Cruz you want to find yourself here.—Flea
The Picnic Basket: Cool spot down by the wharf. Good food and great coffee.
Lulu Carpenters: A little booth. You drive up and get your coffee. Got some pretty girls working. I love that spot. —Ruffo
11th hour (Westside or Downtown): They have the best Boujee Avocado toast and great coffee/pastries. I recommend getting the macaroons — all of them are baked to perfection and It’s one of the only places in Santa Cruz you will find fresh macaroons daily. —Keanna
Verve Coffee: Location on the east side on 41st.
SURF SHOPS
PacWave: The spot on the Westside for all your surf needs. They got it all.
Pearson Arrow Surf Shop: Not only does Pearson Arrow Surfboards have the most core website, Bob Pearson is as legendary as they come in Santa Cruz. His logo is synonymous with this place and it behooves you to pay homage to this shop and get in there and get some gear, order a gun in case you ever surf Mavericks and shake Bob’s hand.
Freeline Surf Shop: Owned by ‘The Condor’ Pete Mel. Classic spot that’s been in town for a long time.
GENERAL/OUTDOORS
Boardwalk Bowl or miniature golf: There’s usually karaoke happening in the general vicinity of Boardwalk bowl.
Cliff jump near the Lane at Toilet Bowl when it’s flat.
Mike Fox and Derby are super fun skate parks.
There are lots of good mountain biking trails and fishing holes in the Santa Cruz mountains.
Fall Creek Trail in Felton is a beautiful trail through the redwoods.
Butano State Park: Just north of Santa Cruz maybe 25 miles. That state park is full of redwoods and hiking. Not that many people know about it.
Henry Cowell State Park: 10 minutes from Santa Cruz.
If you wanna get weird, check out The Mystery Spot “a gravitational anomaly” discovered by superiors in 1939. You’ve probably seen the bumper stickers, if it's flat, check it out and trip out.
