I was already running late and covered in hair. A midday cut left me itchy and late for my next meeting — but this was supposed to be my surf window and I desperately needed to dunk because whatever fragrant product she used had me smelling like a musky candy cane. Of course I had my wife’s 2023 mantra for me: “go fucking surf idiot” ringing in my ear as well. I mapped the distance to my meeting and saw that I had EXACTLY 12 minutes for a surf. 12 minutes to change, run down, paddle out, catch three and come in, change back into clothes and be on the road. Could I do it? Let us see. Swig of water, go!

Changing was no problem. 30 seconds from clothes to fullsuit. It’s amazing how fast you can get ready when you need to and how long you can make it take when you are lagging or cold. 30 seconds is all it took. Wax and key stashed and I’m running. In the sand. Leash strapped. Still running. The tide is low today. Negative tide, really? Been a million sting rays lately too so I’m paddling as soon as it’s deep enough. Paddling in four inches of water at low tide will get you down though. I’m below sea level paddling out feeling exceptionally small. It’s one foot out the back. This is grim and maybe pathetic but I’m surfing. Fastest I’ve ever paddled out. I’m out the back. Gasping. That was an insane flurry. What do you know? A corner comes at me. I ride a wave. We’re in business. Two more needed. It’s been five minutes since I parked my car.

There is a short lull. I’m finally just sitting. Sucking wind and trying to find the positive ions in the ocean mist. I swim underwater, shake my hair out, desperately trying to get this damn reindeer smelling product out of my hair. Another wave comes. I barely scratch in and get to my feet. I ride it, but I’m not happy about it. Rough. Back out. Sitting. It’s been 7 minutes now. I need to be in my car, dry and driving in 5 minutes. I’m back out the back, underwater shaking my head to get loose hair off me. Another wave comes. I scratch in but it closes out. Rough. I belly-in on that. There are one inch waves in the shorebreak. I actually find a corner and make it to my feet. Feels like an accomplishment on a wave that small. I think of when Taj Burrow said, “Sometimes I like to see how small a wave I can actually ride.” I think I just rode it. The smallest wave you can ride. I caught four waves. I have three minutes to be driving.

Running up the sand proves to be the biggest challenge yet. My wetsuit has worked so well that I’m hardly wet on my shoulders, but sweaty. Lungs burning. I’m changing. Damn, wiping the sand off my feet sure takes forever when you’re in a hurry. I’m changed. I’m two minutes behind. I’m sipping water and driving. I make a traffic light I shouldn't have. I’m on time. I have wet hair. I surfed. Shortest surf of my life but I feel better. Much better. Always. Life may try to keep me away, but I got it today. And when someone asked me at the meeting how it was? “Super fun,” I say. With confidence. —Travis Ferré