inherent_bummer.png

It’s not the end of the world.

The Inherent Bummer Guide: Puerto Rico

The Inherent Bummer Guide: Puerto Rico

Travis Ferre
Surfing, Travel, Culture, Drink, Food

The Inherent Bummer Guide to Puerto Rico

You learn this when you get there, but Puerto Rico is to the east coast what Mexico is to the west coast. It’s where you run to warm up and adventure, sip rum and a new bottle of foreign beer. Just a short flight and you’re in trunks and speaking Spanish under palm trees. It’s fantastic.

The culture in Puerto Rico is totally unique and full of flavor and energy. You got Rincon and the country and you got Old San Juan where you can gamble all night sipping rum and coke with Derek Jeter and J-Lo. It can be many things. With a little guidance and respect, you’d be silly not to get down there. And now that you watched Mofungo, we’re certain you’re ready. Here’s some tips. It basically breaks down into a few sections, Rincon being the main surf region and San Juan being the capital and cultural center. Try ‘em both!

Getting There

  • When trying to get there, you can catch a flight into either of the two international airports: Raphael Hernandez Airport (BQN) in Aguadilla or Luis Munoz Marin International Airport (SJU) in San Juan. We recommend flying into Aguadilla (BQN). The flight isn't that much more money and you'll skip the hassle and commotion of the capital city. Plus, you'll save yourself the 2 hour drive to Rincon and the ensuing headache if the boards weren't tied down correctly.

  • We’d post some flight prices, but it all depends on when you're trying to go and where you're traveling from. I definitely encourage you to do a quick search; you can get there.

  • Peak season is December to April with January and February being the busiest.

Transportation

  • Once you land, we highly recommend going the rental car route over an airport shuttle service and then random rides here and there.

  • I'll save you the math (or put it at the bottom), but rental cars starting at $50/day is your best bet and will give you the freedom to mosey around as you wish.

  • Paying in advance always helps get the keys quicker and once you're on your way, please make sure at least one person up front is paying attention.

  • The road signs have the same shape and significance, but they're in Spanish, and the driving culture is more lax with less notice or indication. And yeah, they drive pretty wild down there in the Caribbean. Stay alert.

Accommodation

  • Rincon really has it all. You can find a local's place to rent, your standard hotel, or even a recently opened surf hostel (looks clean). Prices are pretty comparable to other major US cities, so adjust your expectations before dialing in your search filters. Oh, and bring a set of ear plugs for when you sleep. If you don't hear the people at night, there's a good chance you'll hear the wildlife.

  • “I always like staying in old town San Juan for a bit, very old and beautiful fortress city right on the water. If you are adventurous, go down to La Perla which is a little neighborhood on the other side of the wall, hah.” —Riley

Waves

  • Rincon: This is where is spend most of my time. The waves in Rincon are most of the time smaller than the north side of the island, but they wrap around the island and the wind is usually offshore (compared to the north side of the island which blows out sideshore most days). Rincon is a mellow surf town with a lot of east coast transplants; most Americans are from Delaware, New Jersey, or New York. It’s out in the country so don’t be expect fancy shops or service, but that’s why I love it so much. The electricity is prone to go out from time to time and the water supply depends on how much it rains, so be flexible and have a Medalla (the local cerveza).

  • Sandy Beach: One of the beaches with sand. Waves get fun, but not epic. Good spot for beginner surfers, swimmers, kids, dogs, etc.

  • Pools: Very beautiful beach. Waves look deceivingly fun, but they’re usually not. I rarely surf here.

  • Domes: This is on the far end of the point. This is like the Lowers of Western PR. It picks up lots of swell and is a very rippable/fun wave. Good high performance spot. This spot can only handle a couple feet overhead before it maxes out. The bigger the swell gets, the more you start moving down the point. Lots of long boarders who don’t know what they’re doing out here so be careful (this goes for all of Rincon).

  • Indicators: (out front of the lighthouse): When it’s too big for Domes, the next spot is Indicators. This wave can get really good, especially on a low tide. Barrels pop up everywhere and you can get some nice drainers. A heads up: It can be shallow. There is even a wave up from Indicators right out front of the bar. It can be pretty sketchy but you’ll have it all to yourself.

  • In-between Indicators and Marias: There are a bunch of reefs in between these two spots that I like to surf if it’s crowded. The problem is if you start catching too many fun waves, 5 guys will come paddle over and sit on your peak with you.

  • Marias: There are 3 to 4-ish peaks at Marias that all have different faces depending on tide/swell/angle/wind/etc. Very fun wave when it gets above head high. If it’s head high or below, it’s a bit mushy and becomes a longboard spot. I do like surfing up the point on my 7’10” on a negative low tide when it’s offshore — very fun 2’ draining barrels all to yourself. When it turns on, it can be really good. The best size is probably 10-12’ faces. It can handle 15’ faces plus, but gets sketchy above that. There is a barreling section up the point and then the main peak that runs along the reef sometimes barrels. Then, there is an end section peak that is the best barrel on the wave. It has to be good size for this to break; an epic wave that can hold some relative size. It reminds me of Sunset Beach in Hawaii, but less treacherous and more manageable. Good wave to ride a loved step up or a board that turns well in some juice.

  • Dogmans: The section of reef down from Marias. Best when its 8-12’ faces range, but can still cook at 6-8’ faces. My favorite wave in Rincon. For some reason there is a peak wedge that comes in that hits the incoming waves. It gives the waves a bit of push and energy. You can backdoor the initial peak, and then race the barrel down the reef. I have seen guys get spit out of long draining barrels here. Very good wave when it’s on. This is the wave all the best surfers wait to turn on and then everyone is out there. If you are not an expert surfer, do not paddle out here. You will just get in the way.

  • Tres Palmas: Tres is the famous big wave on the island, very fun. You will need a bigger board out here because the paddle out is long, the waves are hard to get into, and you need some float to get to different peaks that are far away. The takeoff zone is very spread out. The wave breaks like a pointbreak and is very fun. I have only surfed it 15’+, but I have seen footage of it getting very big. It can be fun in the 6-8’ range for a longboard, but if it’s 6-8’, Dogmans is probably really good, so go there.

  • Little Malibu: Wave by the harbor that is protected. Good for kids/longboards.

Food

In Rincon:

  • La Copa Llena: Best view/vibe restaurant in Rincon. Right on the water. Beautiful sunsets. It really is paradise here. Upscale food for Rincon.

  • La Cambija: Best food in Rincon in my opinion. Boriqua seafood spot. Must go, but good luck getting a table.

  • Caddy's Calypso: Classic bar and grill right in the Marias parking lot. I go here way too much. American bar food and strong rum punches. They have bands play here and people get pretty rowdy, hah! You will feel like you’re at a fun bar on Long Island.

  • Ola Sunset Cafe: This is the local version of Caddy’s. Good bar snacks but not real dinner dishes.

  • Red Flamboyán: Good Boricua food.

In San Juan:

Drink

In Rincon:

  • Black’s Pub: Epic local bar. Get the chuletas and a Medallia and you’re set.

  • La Cantina: Another local bar. Very fun and they have lobster empanadillas.

In San Juan:

Shuttle MATH!

Airport Shuttle from San Juan (SJU):

  • 1-3 people: you pay $280 total for the group plus $18/board (not board bag).

  • More than 4 people: you pay $42/person plus the same amount ($18) per board.

  • 2 person example: $280 shuttle + $72 boards (each person has 2 boards) = $352 one way ($704 round trip)

  • 4 person example: $168 shuttle + $144 boards (each person has 2 boards) = $312 one way ($624 round trip)

Airport Shuttle from Aguadilla (BQN)

  • 1-3 people: $75 flat for the group plus $18/board (not board bag).
    4-10 passengers: $75 + additional $18/person plus the same amount ($18) per board.

  • 2 person example: $75 shuttle + $72 boards (each person has 2 boards) = $147 one way ($294 round trip)

  • 4 person example: $93 shuttle + $144 boards (each person has 2 boards) = $237 one way ($474 round trip)

MUSIC

Puerto Rico is one of those places that will put you under a spell. You will listen to local music while you’re there and it will be unlike any other music you’ve ever listened to. Something in the water, I guess. You will be filled with charisma and Latin flair and will want to dance at all times. Maybe it’s the warmth. Maybe it’s the beautiful people of the Caribbean. Anyway, we had Will Powers — who says he is a Puerto Rican ignoramus — but knows how to research authentic music — make you playlist. It may not ever make sense to play at home, but we promise once you touchdown in Puerto Rico, it’s the only thing you’ll want on. Maybe give it a spin while you book your trip.

Listen to our special edition 12 Songs: Puerto Rico here

Words to the wisE   

Our friend Riley Metcalf spends a good amount of time drifting through PR so we asked him how to do this. He has a few parting words:

“I am a total seasonal drifter in and out of PR for a few months a year, by no means am I local. The people of PR are super nice and welcoming, and I am very grateful for the friends I have made down there. As long as you are cool and respectful, you should have an epic time.” —Riley

A few tips from one visiting American to another:

  • Don’t show up to lowkey spots with more than two people.

  • Don’t paddle battle for every wave. If someone is on it, just let them go.

  • Don’t be a dickhead.

  • Wait your turn and let the locals get their waves first. They will let you get waves if you just be mellow and don’t hassle.

  • Try not to touch the bottom, most spots are infested with urchins. 

  • Most people speak English so I would address people in English first (unless your Spanish is perfect). If they don’t speak English, then you can speak in Spanish.

  • Be careful driving!

  • Know your limits, just because it’s the Caribbean doesn’t mean you can’t get seriously hurt. PR has some serious/powerful waves, reminds me of Hawaii sometimes. Competent surfers die and are hurt all of the time in PR.

  • Don’t be boring and only eat American food. Boricua food is delicious, and you should be adventurous.

Teahupoo Needs Us

Teahupoo Needs Us
12 Songs: Speak, Memory

12 Songs: Speak, Memory
0